Sunday 26 January 2014

Inuvik Sunrise Festival 2014



I rang in the year of 2014 with some new friends Arctic style.  We began with a heaping pile of nachos at my place and hot mulled wine.  We brought the wine in a thermos down to the frozen lake and watched the northern lights dance across the sky.  Our music did not last as long as intended.  Note: Apple products last about 12 minutes when it’s -30C (-22F), $30 Costco speakers on the other hand last 45mins (?!).  We lit sparklers at midnight and wished each other a happy new year making it was a pretty special night.  I made the mistake of putting the sparkler in my mouth for a second to have my hands free to find the lighter.  It was right up there with a tongue on the flag pole and it took a layer off.  Ouch. Unfortunately, I don’t have a good SLR camera to capture the lights.  I got up in the middle of the night once to go out with a friend with a good camera but it was too cloudy and they couldn’t be seen.   On a clear night though they are almost a given.  The auroras will just have to be captured in my mind, a memory not ever forgotten.  They are magic.
 
After 30 polar nights of darkness the sun was supposed to return January 6th.  Well, they were wrong.  It returned on the 4th.  You would think they could be a bit more accurate.  I heard on CBC it depends on atmospheric changes that are hard to predict. 

Here is a clip https://soundcloud.com/allisondev-1/early-to-rise from Allison Devereaux's CBC interview with Canadian Astronomy Data Centre

On January 6th it was cloudy and it really didn’t get clear again until mid-January extending the polar nights even longer.  It was almost 6 weeks before I felt the sun on my face.  Too long!  That time was really hard for me.  After a stretch of 4 night shifts, you don’t have the light to reset you back to a normal schedule.  It’s almost impossible to get back on track.  I get to sleep but don’t stay asleep, and seem to be up at the wee hours of the morning.  I never have issues sleeping so this was a real challenge.  I’m pretty confident I have that Seasonal Affective Disorder and living in Vancouver through the winter as a shift worker is hard enough.   It’s amplified up here due to the isolation and not having your own friends around.  The worst is over though.  I made it.  People say the constant daylight, starting in 4 month in the summer, is worse.  I can believe it.  Your poor circadian rhythm has no idea what is going on.

The Sunrise Festival January 10th-12th was something to look forward to at the end of this darkness and it really brought the community together.  As mentioned there was zero sun but it was bright and at least there were events to get out of the house for.  The weekend started with the Taste of Inuvik on the Friday night at the Midnight Sun Recreation Complex.  I was hoping to try all the local foods, but the majority was potato salad, sloppy joes and couscous. There was some arctic char chowder, muskox meatballs, bannock and reindeer tortilla bites that were super good though.  For $5 it was by far the cheapest meal I have had in the Arctic. 
 
After that were the Drum Dancers in their traditional dress of leathers, furs and beads.  This was amazing and the drums made of stretched caribou hide made your bones shake.  It was cool to see some authentic culture up here.   The dances portray legends and stories.  There is a revival of this art in the North as the elders try to keep the tradition alive by teaching and including the younger generations.  I'm trying to upload a video, it's not working.  Sigh.








The Saturday consisted of a pancake breakfast at the Legion then a snowmobile parade.  I was ready with my camera and waiting for a snowmobile decorated worthy enough for a photo when I realized it was over.  The parade had about 7 sleds.  Wait.  What?!  Ok...  


Next up was the snow carving completion.    Some new friends took on the challenge with no tools other than a few kitchen knives from the nursing residence.  I think it was harder than they thought.  The snow was pretty dense and took them almost three hours to complete their mushroom.  Unfortunately they were up against some very famous local carvers.  It was pretty stiff competition.  First place won $500, second $300 and third $200.










This was my piece.  I call it...."feta"...   


That night we went down to the lake where they had an igloo and a traditional hunting tent serving some “country”(traditional) foods.  I tried maktaak “muktuk”, a delicacy here, which is beluga whale skin/fat/blubber.  It was kind of a gelatinous three layered fishy rubber boot.  Very chewy.  I see now why the Inuit smother it in HP sauce. It is very high in Vitamin C which is why the Inuit never got scurvy.  I read that European whalers did not fare as well because they did not include maktakk in their diets. I also had some beluga whale jerky, phonetically called “mipgoo”.  It’s very tough, a little stringy.  You tear off a corner and work at it for a few minutes before you can swallow it. One beluga yields close to 500lbs of food for the community, dogs and oil for cooking and lamps.   The skin, once traditionally tanned, is used for tents, boat covers and footwear.  The Inuit are allowed one whale per household in hunting season.  They use harpoons to spear the animal, then a gun to kill it.  They use a boat to drag it to shore and butcher it. Like anything they hunt up here, they use 100% of the animal, and don’t hunt more than they need.  As Inuvik is inland, the closest place to get beluga in Inuvik is in Tuktoyuktuk 185km north at the Arctic Ocean.
 Clockwise starting with the  big thing: Eskimo donut, dried fish (herring), beluga jerky, muktuk (boiled beluga skin/fat/blubber, bannock)


 this is the face of 'not convinced'


Moose hide gloves, sheared beaver fur cuff and hand beading

Wolf gloves.  His hands...warmer than mine!
After the lake we walked across the street to the golf course where they had a huge and I mean HUGE bonfire.  I think they said it was 600 pallets they lit up.  It was nice to have some warmth after a day in minus 25C.  It almost got too hot, you had to stand 30 feet back.  It was managed by the firemen/women as was the firework display.  It was pretty impressive for small town budget.  There was a mass exodus once the fireworks were over so instead of driving the road back to town we hopped on the frozen Mackenzie river/ice road to drive back. In winter the frozen rivers act at highways through the Arctic.  It’s pretty cool. 




The night ended with a Barney Bentall concert put on by the CBC at the Igloo Church in the middle of town.  It wasn’t that well attended but it was a great show.  The acoustics were perfect and I loved the lighting that allowed shadows of the performers to dance on the walls of the church.  The CBC was recording it.  I’m sure they recorded me hacking away in the back of the church.  I had terrible cough that weekend that was exacerbated by the cold that was pretty hard to avoid. 



The ceiling of the church

We had a few weeks of the flu running rampant though town.  Confirmed cases of H1N1, lots of them.  There is a swab that can be taken to confirm the flu virus and Edmonton, where we send the samples for testing, told us to stop.  Just assume and treat the people as confirmed cases.  They had too many swabs to process.  I did get my flu shot in Vancouver before I came up for round two up here.  I almost didn’t but couldn’t imagine another week of solitary confinement like when I had my eye infection.  At Lions Gate where I work we are mandated to get our flu shot.  That always made me angry but as I work with newborns I always begrudgingly did get it.  I think as I normally work on a perinatal floor I don’t see the effects of the flu.  Here I did and I’m a firm believer in the flu shot now.  We only admitted the elderly, children or pregnant women, mainly treating with Tamiflu and fluids but there were dozens more that came through emergency.  There is obviously pretty poor compliance with flu shots up here. 

This isn’t my youtube video, but it ‘s a good 2.5 minute summary of the weekend.